Transcript
Auto-generated transcript. Not time-synced to the video.
[Music]
both of those projects
initiatives got off the ground because
of the guerrero
prolific team members slain in west
germany
at the future out of the 24 who were
killed
were americans who had come to learn in
covenant
i say one million jewish children
who were made to become losers
[Music]
it is never too little it is never too
late
and it is never enough jewish history
sound bites
bringing alive the world of our glorious
past
here is our host live from jerusalem
jewish historian and tour guide yehuda
gabor
welcome everyone to jewish history sound
bites this is yudhi gaber with another
episode of jewish history sound bites
and this episode has been
generously sponsored by the shapiro
family
of los angeles before we get to the
topic of jewish dress in
in modern jewish history i just want to
read a couple of
uh feedback letters from recent episodes
it had a couple of weeks ago
an episode on the safer nephew
of verb velozener and um and its role in
in the history of the of the hasidic
movement and the opposition to the
hasidic movement
and a interesting i guess is the right
word a
somewhat odd a letter um i'm just going
to read a
short expert ex excerpt excuse me
um about i mentioned that
of a legend had not uh had not signed on
any of the
um any of the excommunications
um about uh hasidim and um
so part of the letter i received said
that this letter writer this listener
heard
that the reason is as he heard from
rabbi yosef buksbaum that he knew the
handwriting of rebhaim velajenner as he
was a big
expert or the biggest expert in
kissfayyad in manuscripts and the
handwriting
from the harem is rabhiyam's handwriting
so if he wrote it
he did not need to sign it that's
pretty pretty wild i gotta say
because it's not supported by any of the
evidence
we know of at the time in other words
there would have had to have been some
sort of
corroborative evidence that uh
that that he's the one who wrote it that
someone said that he wrote it that
someone wrote that he wrote it that
someone
testified that here i don't know it just
seems uh
seems to be to me at least uh it's just
me
speculation and quite far-fetched um
so i would dismiss it um i had a recent
episode about the devourer of rum
from deverikana shapiro the rav of kavna
and fascinating couple of letters about
him in the covenant ghetto very very
interesting
one listener wrote that his son
writes in the introduction to his safer
that his father would not cut his beard
he was even willing to get killed
at least not to touch his beard which
he was able to do and he and the nazis
did not cut off his beard
and his son writes this i looked it up
explicitly in the introduction to the
books an incredible
dedication of the dvar of rum to not
have his beard cut off
another um another letter about him in
the
ghetto also fascinating this is a son of
a survivor of the covenant ghetto wrote
me this
my father told me that handbills were
plastered throughout the covenant ghetto
which publicized up sak by rabbi kahane
shapiro
which obligated the ghetto inhabitants
to work for the germans anyam kippur
as a matter of pekuach nefesh a
reference to the story
of the handbills is found in a 2014 book
titled the clandestine history of the
covenant
ghetto police notwithstanding the my
father simply could not refrain
excuse me cannot fathom working on him
kippur and did not report for work that
day
very interesting okay so also i want to
mention that it's the
end of the contest of the trivia quiz
uh of the machine that the in our column
for the record in mishpacha magazine so
i hope
that you all uh entered your uh into
into the uh and you know into got got
good scores and got into the
raffle and we're gonna get some prizes
and i'm gonna do some follow-up in the
coming episodes i'm gonna try to analyze
some of the results and some of the
questions and
and talk about it a little bit so stay
tuned for that as well
and of course um if you want to be in
touch with me about any sponsorships or
lectures of the sort
then please feel free to do so yehuda
yehudigebr.com today's topic is
jewish dress in history it's a big topic
and it's possibly big enough for two
episodes maybe even three
it's anything we don't get to in this
time we'll have a future opportunity
um so uh don't get nervous if we don't
uh if we don't get to it
um so and also if you want a future
episode dedicated to this topic
of jewish dress and fashion throughout
history
then you can dedicate a future episode
and be in touch with me about that
sponsorship uh
as well it's as huge i mentioned
as is as it's ancient it's not just
modern jewish history this is throughout
the ages and it's we know that the
geographical spread
and the chronological range of the
styles of jewish fashion
throughout history is very diverse and
it goes from
anywhere at any time in any century in
any country that jews lived in it's a
topic for
everywhere literally and that's why
there's really so much to talk about i'm
going to
try to keep it focused on uh specific
areas and times
you know you have in in in the in you
see in rembrandt's
uh paintings of the dutch jewish
community who were
many of the wealthy uh uh patrons and
ones who commissioned rembrandt to paint
their their
portrait was dutch jews living in
amsterdam in the 16th century
um so that's and they have a very
distinctive style of dress which is
similar to dutch dress at the time but
also uh jewish in its own way and it's
vastly different than for instance
traditional yemenite dress which is
different than medieval
german or medieval spanish jewish dress
so each each one has its as its time so
and also
these type of episodes also draw a lot
of feedback so i'm looking forward
to that feedback and we'll incorporate
that into future
uh installments of this topic as well
there's actually a letter i got from a
lawyer
loyal and dedicated listener who who i
mentioned to him that i'd be doing this
episode
so he writes to me as follows i know
there's a lot on this topic and i'm sure
you'll cover as much as you're able
but if possible please include include
these few items because i use them
a black hat fedora a kappata that's the
lubavitch version of a bekacha
black velvet yarmulke jackets for the
weekday and shabbos for many
and even as a baker in yeshiva i
wondered how the hat and jacket became
the equivalent
to eating matzah and pesach and that was
that was what he wrote so i don't know
if i'll get specifically to those
hopefully we'll
touch on it a little bit um today of
course
the type of yarmulke one wears at least
in israel it's probably less so in
in in less tense uh jewish societies but
in it it's the type of yamako one
whereas defines
your religious affiliation it even
defines your political affiliation
and whether i should be friends with you
or not it's a statement
um you know do you have the niryanika
and a velvet yarmulke you have a big one
you have small one you have leather you
have hasidic different styles of
yarmulkes and
colors and and it gets very exciting
this is of course not to meant to be an
exhaustive
uh or comprehensive overview it's just
some of
the thoughts that i came up with on the
topic so if you're expecting something
completely con
comprehensive i hope you're not too
disappointed i also
won't be discussing too much a little
bit i'll touch on it here and there of
female jewish fashion
this time around maybe in a future
episode of course it's a fascinating
topic
maybe for another time so the primary
focus on male fashion but i will
touch here and there on female jewish
fashion as well traditional
uh primarily we're gonna focus on the
last couple of centuries last
two three hundred years and of course
primarily
eastern european as is in general the
general theme of jewish history some
ways though not exclusively but
you know i'll try to get around as much
as we can there's a certain
anachronism that goes on when we talk
about
jewish dress throughout the ages is that
we assume that any just that's worn by
jews today was worn by them
throughout history and that reminds me
of a story
of a family member of mine actually
he sent his his uh children to a yeshiva
that was kind of haimish and they had
the
some of the administration and some of
the rebaim and the yeshiva were of
hasidic background and therefore his son
in first grade came home with a
a booklet on the parsha where maisha
rabbenu and aaron
were in the desert and they're wearing
strymols and dasan and aviram who were
the bad guys
they were wearing hats and jackets now
of course this family member of mine
wore a hat and jacket and you know the
rebbe and the yeshiva were astraymal
so he called up the principal to
complain he said you're trying to teach
my kid that his father is like dustin
and aviram and
you know the idea is not only that you
know that
that was lousy education in his opinion
but also
that we assume that of course maisha
rabbanu had to have warren astremill and
i remember
there was a joke when i was growing up i
don't know might have might have
developed differently today but that
they said how do we know that maestro
bana war is tribal because it says in
the past explicitly vaye
so of course he wore one so we assume uh
that
that that it's been like this throughout
history because we're a traditional and
conservative society and nothing ever
changes
of course today things did change
because it's actually appropriate to
mention it's approxim
almost exactly a year ago that the
original lockdowns
began with coronavirus so it's about
a year since then that this corona
changed everything because now no one
gets dressed altogether so there is no
fashion anymore
so that's appropriate to discuss what
was in history and of course the
question is
is it jewish fashion or is it jews
who are involved in a fashion and jews
have always been involved in the textile
industry you know people like
um just for example calvin klein and
ralph lauren who is ralph lipschitz
calvin klein's ancestors came from
galicia and ralph lauren's ancestors
came from
pinsk in in lithuania and belarus
so they both grew up on the grand
concourse in in the bronx which is
that neighborhood is of course uh you
know if anyone likes the bronx we can
talk about it in the jewish
america great american jewish history
series which is going to be starting
again soon
so those are they're they're big big
names in fashion and they're jews but
that's not jewish fashion what we're
talking about today
is jewish distinctive dress
what today would be referred to as you
know uh
where they were where you know where
yeshiva guys get their clothing
so sims bash is is jewish dress or
century 21
or emporio suits supply in israel it's
in the gula neighborhood when i was
growing up in muncie we used to go to
this elderly holocaust survivor mrs
wenger
she had the suits so that's jewish dress
but what i really want to get into is
the the history of it what goes behind
it
um there's three aspects to explore with
traditional jewish rest
one by one is the fact that it's
primarily a knockoff
of a copy of non-jewish dress the jews
were always influenced by their
surroundings and
and primarily they went with the general
trends and fashions
uh of their of their surrounding
countries and societies the culture that
that's that's the
that's the basic theme their second
point is that there were
almost always jewish variations there
was
distinctive jewish shabbos clothing
there was modest attire
sneeze issues that caused it to be
slightly different there was also very
often decrees governmental decrees
that said the jews had to wear a special
hat at a where special
sign on their clothing of course were
familiar with the nazi era with the
yellow star
but many societies in medieval times
they had
jews wear distinctive markings on their
clothing and that became a jewish
form of dress the third point to
emphasize which is
which is more related to what we're
going to talk to today um
is is the fact that the challenges of
modernity
and in the end of the 19th century the
early 20th century
so the rise of jewish fundamentalism and
the onslaught of modernity and those
challenges
caused the the external expressions of
jewish identity to become very strong
and and in the way you dress defined who
you were because
the community felt threatened and
especially that ad what added to that
was the holocaust
that anything that came from eastern
europe was
now frozen in time because it's holy
because there are martyrs because it's a
vanished world
so anything from that world is is
elevated in status
and therefore we can't change it so
both because of the challenges of
modernity in the decades leading up to
the holocaust
so dress became a very important value
in the jewish community in the
traditional jewish community
and especially because of the holocaust
and the decimation of that world
and therefore the whole status of any
symbolism from that world becomes
elevated
and therefore that that influence is how
we dress until this very day
but the golden rule is and i want to
emphasize it is that basically
almost all jewish fashion is knockoffs
copies of non-jewish fashion with a
slight jewish twist sometimes
um it's what the non-jews forced them to
wear and that became traditional other
times it was just copying what they wore
and eventually gave it a bit of a a
jewish flavor and oftentimes the
non-jewish style
permeated the jewish ghetto at a much
later date
often when it was already out of style
in its place of origin and then it
extended
much later in the jewish community as
can be expected in a conservative
religious society
so garb is a uniform you know that in
sports
they wear uniform and armies boy scouts
and then and uh and that goes for jewish
traditional dress as well in egypt
and almost by pesach now they were
redeemed because
of jewish dress that's what the that's
what the tradition teaches us
that they they kept a distinctive jewish
dress so it has
cultural and historic value even
religious value
though often it was imposed by external
factors and always
influenced by them in fact they
mentioned pesach and the haggadah
so the his two other points the hassan
cipher who was one of the fighters
against modernity in hungary in in the
1800s early 1800s
so he said that he pointed out that it
that it says when they
that they were going to take when they
left mitsrayam and they left egypt they
were going to take the
clothes from the egyptians as part of
their
salary as part of taking away the gold
from the egyptians they also took their
clothing
but he he points out that the pasta says
the
you're going to put it on your children
he says why are they going to put it on
their children why can't they wear it
themselves
so reflecting the trends in his day and
age
the german and and and the fashions in
the in the austrian empire
he said because the material were
non-jews that they were modern they were
modern
and with courts they went with short
clothing
so you know short jackets so they
couldn't wear it for themselves because
they had to wear long
so but it fit it fit their children it
was long for their children the
adult egyptian clothing would be for the
children so you see how
the history comes uh you know in that
challenge there i remember
rebel wine uh pointed out to me a few
times
that in many ancient haggadahs he's
examined the illustrations and haggad is
through the ages
and almost always when it depicts the
four sons
so almost always the wicked son is is
depicted with the
prevailing non-jewish or modern fashion
that was the
the expression of the of how the wicked
son
looks but it is a uniform you know when
you go to a formal ceremony if you go
to to the tony's uh uh awards
you have to wear a tuxedo you have to
have
you have to conform to a certain
atmosphere that that's in the
surrounding and the same goes through uh
to a jewish society also of course at
the tony's even if you're a seat filler
you have to wear
a tuxedo who and then sometimes the seat
filler even wins a tony but that's
another story
so it's important to understand the
underlying principle every society not
just jewish society
fashion is a strong statement of
identity it's a facet of identity it's a
statement of who you are
there's also a technology factor you
know sometimes in europe
people might have been before the war
poorer
but they may have had nicer clothes than
today in 21st century united states or
israel because
they were handmade and the handmade
might have been better quality so
so they maybe not you know so so there's
there's there's other external factors
as well so we go to the 19th century
also want to know how did distinctive
hasidic dress
develop so there's different nuances
again in
in each dynasty but um
but it developed over time traditional
jewish dress
eventually like i said before becomes
frozen because of
of the onslaught of on traditions so
that we
keep traditional and a conservative
dress and because of the great crisis
uh uh facing the hasidic movement in uh
in the uh early 20th century and
and uh and the hasidic movement turns
towards fundamentalism
and it becomes a very dress becomes a
very strong
uh uh border of where the community is
and um and i remember um
i remember uh i i was privileged to
study under for a time
professor martin martin vajinsky who
describes this a lot he
he explains a lot about hasidic dress in
in the early
19th century all
all you know non-hasidic rabbis missnak
them even masculine
uh and rabbis they all wore copics
and strymals in the 19th century it was
common
dress in the russian empire even in the
austro-hungarian empire
it was not distinctive hasidic dress it
was
traditional jewish dress of 18
19th century europe um so what made it
acidic dress at what point so you have a
very interesting
story in 1846 there was what's known
in in in jewish history as the xerus
hamalbuchen
excuse me the um the dress decrees
which lasted until 1854 but even beyond
um it was mainly in central poland but
it was in other areas of the russian
empire as well
and uh they there was a decree against
wearing jewish dress
and what are they gonna do so the many
many of the great rebbers many of the
great
leaders in sadiq they said no we have to
have a serious nephesh
valley or this is jewish dress this is
this is our identity we have to
risk our lives for traditional jewish
stress but there is options
excuse me yeah the government gave
options to you can choose you can either
choose a european
bourgeois dress a more modern dress or
you could choose traditional russian
peasant
dress uh fashion which um
so in the uproar that ensued many of the
hasidic communities adopted the russian
dress because that was the lesser of two
evils
that allowed them to retain their beards
that allowed them to retain long coats
and fur hats and this is also important
it wasn't common in central poland at
the time where garen
and varka and alexander and all these
other dynasties were developing
so jews could remain distinct even
even you know they weren't even around
so many russian peasants which was more
east in in the pale not in central
poland
um but jewish dress eventually evolves
into hasidic dress in the late 19th
century
like i said the crisis of modernity the
need for distinctiveness
um there's it's a means of collective
identity
during this time of crisis and it's also
to project
uh uh to the outside world um
the the the emergence of a of you know
it's a stigmatization we're which we
don't want to get we don't we don't want
to get rid of we want to get rid of
excuse me
we want to get rid of free riders we're
establishing barriers
um for the community and it's going to
be an embarrassment
for outsiders to wear our dress and we
only want people who are strongly
committed this gives strength internal
strength to the core
and it's strengthening the ranks anyone
who removes the dress
is outside the community this of course
becomes even more pronounced
during the urbanization following world
war one because now you're in a big city
you want to spot someone a block away in
your store
or in in in the park he's part of us
he's not part of us
right and it's a distinctive dress that
preserves it in an urban
urban setting so that's um that's very
important uh
that's uh it is also the question of
expense which which
uniform dress is also not affordable at
the time so it doesn't become completely
uniform until the post war
um so not everyone wore the the
distinctive hasidic dress but it
it's kind of a gradual so
the um and in different different
dynasties develop their own
nuances you know one of the other things
that that wojinski points out is that uh
is that hasidic fashion has preserved
imperial borders of the 19th century
in other words uh hasidic dynasties
today
they they they come from galicia the
austro-hungarian empire pre-world war
one they'll wear
similar types of dress if they come from
the russian empire or parts of poland
they'll wear different and and and
literally
they're probably the only people in the
world who have been able to preserve
political borders of the 19th century
through the way they dress
in 2021 across the ocean in williamsburg
or in israel
um it's a fascinating phenomenon
in in poland the hasidim did not wear
striables they were spuddicks
and all polish christine wasn't just
gyerus any
any hasidic dynasty in poland if it was
majits or
or khajnits or radomsk or
even navaminsk which was imported from
belarus but
settled down in poland so they adopted
the polish dress
you know the geraka see them they they
would tuck their pants
their their pants into their socks and
became a distinctive
part of their uniform and i mentioned in
another episode that perhaps
it was because of the mud that was that
was a joke that they said who knows if
it's really true
in galatia further south they had a
different style dress
they in fact the in bells the children
wore a distinctive or still wear
a distinctive cap it because it was a
decree
and that at one point the government
forced the jews to wear that type of cap
and they decided to adopt it as a badge
of pride this is what the children will
wear in honor of shabbos
so they took something that was supposed
to be shameful and they
transformed it in a creative way into a
badge of pride
there's a story um at a belle's wedding
there was a fellow
by the name of rabitrik nakhum twersky
who was
from the spike of dynasty which comes
from square who comes from chernobyl
and he married him to the bell's family
married a daughter of the belzeraba
eventually was a rabbi in rava ruska and
he was killed by the nazis
but he was going through a struggle at
the time and he wrote this incredible
confession to the yiddish writer on skin
and warsaw
tennyson denizen in in warsaw and he
complains there about how the bells
dressed and in general hasidim in
galicia
they wear a very different type of dress
than what the
ukrainian and chernobyl dynasty uh
they they dress much more nicer much
more refined and he says the bells
galicia dress is
is longer and the sleeves are long and
it's big and baggy
and he didn't like it and he's very
critical of the way
they dress in galicia so you see even
within the
internal within the different dynasties
different areas
they each have their already their
distinct uh address we know that
throughout the first 100 years
perhaps longer for a large portion of
the history of the hasidic movement that
sadikim of the movement wore
white and it was considered if you were
someone white before
he was he was at sadiq he was a hasidic
leader
eventually that changed um
vishnuts which was a hungarian romanian
hasidic group they had
their distinctiveness which was that
they had their hat banned on the other
side
that band was on the right side in
general many
one of the distinctive forms of hasidic
dress became
for kabbalistic reasons that they had
the coat buttons were buttoned right
over left as opposed
to left over right and because they did
it for a kabbalistic reason
that the right it has to be stronger so
that became a
a symbolic form of of of their dress
so envision it the one of the vision of
the rebels had noticed
that a priest his hat band was on
the other side so he wanted to be
different than the priest be different
than the christians
so he immediately switched his hat band
to
flip it around the other side and this
way it becomes a distinctive part of the
uniform
i mentioned in another episode about the
skivera boots and i said it incorrectly
so i got a hundred emails afterwards
that the reason that the skiver
has dynasty wears boots is because one
of them joined the
married into bells and he wanted to
cover over his white socks
so he put on boots it became part of the
skivera uniform so
so that's the clarification of that but
that again it's another example
eventually with hasidic interdistinctive
dress
is not just only to separate from the
outside world but perhaps even more so
today especially
is to be a distinctive uniform for their
specific tribe
it gives a strong sense of identity to
separate themselves not from the outside
world but rather from
a different hasidic dynasty and again
especially with urbanization when
there's
it's not that your area of galicia
you're the only hasidic group around and
in town so you don't need to separate
yourself from
with an external expression like that
from anyone else but
when urbanization happens which
continues till today
so there's a hundred hasidic groups in
your community so how do you look
different
so you have to have these small nuances
so that makes
it makes one look different we have in
in the lobovich
the hasidic group they or the rebel the
last rabbit abandoned the shrimal
for a distinctive type of fedora and
that became the symbol of
of the of that that dynasty that that
group that community
one of the most unique uh um uh hasidic
style dresses and it's probably one of
the best examples of non-jewish
influences on jewish garb is breathless
hasidic dress or lack thereof breslav
hasidic dress which seems to be
influenced by
hippie or beatnik hipster
you know 1960s san francisco communes
type of uh
fashion which uh which you know
influences
large segments of the breast lift
community uh till not all of them but
large segments of them uh today uh the
it even goes as far as glasses and gear
and
i believe also there was certain times
when the rebbe made
a a a request or or decree
that everyone has to buy a specific type
of glasses and therefore that became
one of the ways that uh again a fashion
statement of of this
of this dynasty of course also natara
anatalis
which would be specifically jewish
development as the non-jews did not wear
a talis
but it could even be something so simple
as to even just wear a string well the
satmarov
said that in his community in the post
war in the united states has to start
wearing strymols why start
because in hungary as opposed to poland
as opposed to ukraine as opposed to
russia
on hungary strymol's were not so common
among hasidim before the war
and most kasim did not wear strymols so
he's
but he said post war we have to start
wearing because
it's a different situation it's uh it's
a
it's it's we need more of a symbol we
need to show
that we're different and it's it's more
modern more urban more
the the onslaught of american values and
western values and modern dress it's
more of a threat
so we he he wanted and he asked that
everyone wears a strymo within the
satmer community
you know and then like i said we go from
we come full circle you know the event
in the eighteen hundreds and seventeen
hundreds the lit fox were wearing
striables we have
we know people in the time of the ville
nagoyan and vilna war streimels and it's
if we have pictures
he wears drama why because it was a
russian winter dress
until today it's a russian winter dress
if you go to russia
especially among the aristocracy at that
time and uh
and uh and uh you know the the
we go just touch on female fashion just
for a second in the famous
more infamous uh sans sadigura
dispute of from 1869 to 1876
uh between the division of sons and the
tzadikam
dynasty so one of the aspects of the
dispute
was the was the fashion accepted in
by the women in the sadigura community
even in the rebels families
to what was called then a crinoline or a
hoop skirt
and uh and the divrechai and shaitals
also wigs that was that was a big issue
then as well
um and the the the recharm said that
that that was inappropriate it's not
snes and you're following the non-jewish
fashion
and uh you know the it becomes a big
part of the term that the very high end
place
on the saudi guru dynasty and on the
siddique so the way their
wives dress with this crinoline or hoop
skirt whatever it is
is a big issue and it has to be removed
that can't be a
jewish dress if we move away from
hasidim just for a few minutes
is we go to yerushalayim the old yeshua
spartak dress
we have uh the way that the ashkenazim
were able to
come into yerushalayim in the early
1800s was only by disguising themselves
as in in in sephardic dress because
ashkenazim were not allowed to live in
yusuf
because there was a whole issue with the
the the arab landlords when when
it came in 1700 and then they were in
debt and they didn't want any european
jews coming anymore the sephardic jews
paid their rent on time they were
also businessmen they were more reliable
um
but the ashkenazim they didn't like them
they don't want them so when
when the ashkenazim tried to resettle
new shalom they had to adopt
the sephardic dress to sneak in and that
became
your show me fashion eventually that
became traditionally
genuine fashion even though its origins
were in were copied off of
their sephardic brothers you know the
the distinctive
sephardic dress for hundreds of years in
many countries in israel and
yerushalayim also
was the tar bush it's also called the
fez and the jalabia
in ottoman the ottoman empire that was
that was nonjewish dress that was muslim
dress the tar bush was a
red hat that was worn and and the
jalapeno was the long
coat the galima in hebrew the the long
uh you know like a robe type of a code
and this this brings the idea of
immigrants when you come from one
country and you come
to the united states to israel to to
palestine at the time
to change from the previous fashion and
to adopt the local fashion that's
something that takes time and
and not always is it done so easily in
fact um
the interesting story the rabbis in in
ottoman-palestine during world war one
sephardic rabbis i'm talking about in
the sephardic community
you know people had come from syria from
iraq from turkey
uh they were living in yerushalayim so
there was a military draft
so there was a deferment for rabbis and
rabbis were a distinctive type of
glimmer
certain distinctive jalabi with a sash
with a certain type of tar bush
so they they got it deferment so what
happens everyone started to put those on
because they wanted that military
deferment the ottomans
they weren't they weren't they weren't
dumbs so they saw that everyone's
starting to wear it so they did away
with the rabbinic deferments so the
rabbis had to go into hiding
they tried to escape the whole story um
which is interesting because of world
war ii in before
and during the in the 19 early 1900s
the the the yeshiva boys were grey hats
and the simple working men laborers were
caps capeches like casquet
they were a simple hat and the rabbis
wore black cats
the one the only ones who wore black
cats were rabbis
so when when there's certain rabbis when
they were escaping from the nazis the
beginning of the war
from the soviets in order to disguise
themselves
they would get a gray hat so that they
wouldn't look like a rabbi because
only a rabbi would be sometimes rabbis
were at higher risk so they wanted to be
they disguised themselves by wearing a
gray hat now the mustard yeshivas in
lithuania
the from the muslim movement and even
other ones and mere
in intel's and many yeshivas they
adopted modern european fashionable
dress as a principle as part of their
educational platform to
to to the the yeshiva boy should look
aside from the vardic they they did not
do that
so when slabhatka in 1924 moved to
yerushalayim
they before they went to chevron they um
they didn't fit in
because um because the roshami's were
wearing very conservative long
coats long beards and here these
dandies were coming into town wearing
very
fashionable clean shaven hats and canes
and
ties and they looked like masculine they
looked like
they looked like they were very modern
so they did not fit into
shalom and the ushamis kind of chased
them out of town and that's eventually
why
they settled in in khavren um so the
the um the uh the the
idea of wearing long or short uh they
they like they said
the yeshivas at that point went to short
jackets because it was
more modern accepted in european society
and became
a question of rabbinic attire and
especially in the lithuanian world
to wear a long code which eventually was
a frac which is another knockoff of a
non-jewish dress and german aristocracy
in the 19th century
they wore fracks that's where it came
from german hamburg and
afrac they're both german non-jewish
fashion
that became rabbinic attire whereas the
common man wore a vest
or a jacket a short jacket and until
today there was
there are russia yeshiva who made a
statement out of
of of not wearing a long jacket not
wearing a frock
no i mean in israel of course everyone's
running to wear a frog that you know
as soon as they can get a position where
but there are were ashish ever
remember my rebbe in the mirror of he he
did not
does not aware of rock and romer stern
or a big big people
of palm uh blessed member feinstein
there were people who they did they
chose not to wear the rabbinic attire
in fact in the mirror most of the uh
rabbeim they did
they wore short jackets there was one
there was one rebbe in the mirror who
who uh only wore a frock when he would
go to
the united states and um when the
archala came
the alumni came to study in the yeshiva
so he would give his shirt to the
archicad since they were visiting from
the united states
he would wear his frock so they said to
him you're not an american now he says
no i
kept my passport in my pocket so it's
it's it's part of the
rabbinic distinctive attire i remember i
was doing a segment on
on um on great photographs with the
legendary
gadolin photographer maisha yarmisch who
has the best
pictures of the great gazelle's throat
of the last generation so his he has a
very famous picture of her maisha
feinstein when he was when he was in up
in the mountains during the summer on
vacation he's
caught him in when he was wearing his
pajama shirt
he was relaxing and uh and he said so he
said moishi armish told me he said
there are people who think that ramaisha
was wearing a blue shirt he wasn't
wearing a blue shirt
he was his pajamas so um so the uh
that became uh it became uh you know
they uh it's that's part of the you know
the yeshiva guy when he goes when he
goes to work he's gonna transfer into
blue shirt i had a friend who was in the
mirror
he told me when he's leaving the mirror
he's going straight from the airport
to blind blood blue shirts because he
he's
now he's going to be going to be part of
the workforce he needs to have
blue shirts he can't be wearing a white
shirt so fashion because
a very strong statement i got about a
third of the way through the material
that i prepared so i think we'll have to
go to
part two so this is you the gabriel with
jewish history soundbytes you can reach
me at yehuda at yahoodiger.com for
questions comments sponsorships lectures
you can subscribe to jewish history
soundbites and podbean
or your favorite podcast platform follow
us on twitter at soundbytes
and i hope you enjoyed